How long does it take to get from Kansai Airport to Kyoto Station using the Haruka train?

It takes about 80 minutes to travel from Kansai Airport to Kyoto Station on the Haruka train. It is a convenient way to travel as you can get there directly without any transfers.

What are the price and taste characteristics of the giant pork buns at 551 Horai in Kyoto?

The giant pork buns at 551 Horai are sold for 460 yen for two pieces. The dough is fluffy and sweet, similar to old-fashioned cornbread, and they are generously filled with meat.

How can I enter the izakaya Onikai in Kyoto without waiting in line?

You can easily make an advance reservation for Onikai via Google Maps. Since reservations are required for this restaurant, booking in advance through Google Maps allows you to be seated immediately without waiting.

Are there any tips to keep in mind when ordering the beef-wrapped seasonal vegetables and the Spanish mackerel stone pot rice at Onikai Izakaya?

Both dishes take quite a long time to prepare, so it is best to order them first as soon as you arrive at the restaurant. For the Spanish mackerel stone pot rice, the staff will serve it according to your dining pace, and you can also pour broth over it to enjoy it as ochazuke.

Kyoto Izakaya Review 2026: Onikai & 551 Horai

An Authentic Kyoto & Osaka Food Diary

Why Izakaya Onikai is a Must-Book Local Gem

Photos & Written by Yappi

Hi everyone, Yappi here!

My husband and I recently went on an incredible trip to the Kansai region, spending four days exploring the historic streets of Kyoto and three days soaking in the neon lights of Osaka. Since we had plenty of time, we dedicated our itinerary to finding the absolute best local culinary experiences!

After catching a late afternoon flight and landing at Kansai International Airport (KIX), we hopped right onto the Haruka Express train directly to Kyoto Station. The journey took about 80 comfortable minutes.

If you are wondering about the best way to get from Kansai Airport to Kyoto Station, check out our comprehensive comparison guide below!

How to Get from Kansai Airport to Kyoto Station: Haruka Express vs. Limousine Bus vs. Nankai Line

1. The Ultimate Comfort Food

'551 HORAI'

On our way to the hotel, we stumbled upon a branch of the legendary 551 HORAI, famous across Kansai for its freshly steamed pork buns.

We ordered their signature pork buns (2 pieces) for a very budget-friendly 460 JPY (~$3.00)!

Since we were starving after our journey, we split one right away on the street, and it completely blew us away.

Unlike typical thin-skinned dumplings, the dough here is slightly sweet, incredibly pillowy, and thick—almost like traditional steamed corn cake or sweet bread. Inside, it is packed with a savory, juicy pork filling that hits all the right spots.

You will see 551 HORAI outlets everywhere in Osaka and Kyoto.

While I wouldn't recommend waiting in a massive line for an hour, it is 100% worth grabbing as a quick, satisfying snack whenever you walk past an open stall!

They also offer shumai and other dim sum options. Since Kansai is such a food lover's paradise, my only regret is not having enough stomach space to try them all! 😉

2. Farm-to-Table Izakaya with Local Vibes

'Izakaya Onikai'

One of our main goals for this trip was to dive deep into Kyoto's local food scene. We discovered Onikai, a unique izakaya centered around the concept of serving fresh, seasonal vegetables sourced directly from their own private farm. The concept sounded so fresh and exciting that we knew we had to reserve a table! 💚

📍 Onikai (おにかい)
388 Komeyacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8026, Japan

Kyoto is famous for its narrow, winding alleyways. Following Google Maps, we walked down a quiet side street, questioning if we were in the right place, until we spotted this cozy entrance with a traditional noren curtain hanging over the door!

The venue is intimate and cozy. The second floor features a lively counter seating area surrounding the open kitchen, while larger groups and locals seemed to be guided up to the third floor.

The open kitchen design creates a vibrant, energetic atmosphere that feels completely authentic. We booked our seats in advance online, so we were seated immediately without any wait. 😊 (Reservations are highly recommended; you can easily book through Google Maps!)

Since we arrived late in the evening close to last call, we had to order quickly.

Pro Tip: The beef-wrapped vegetables and claypot rice take a while to prepare, so order them the second you sit down! This tip from local food blogs was a lifesaver.

Here are the food and drink menus with the items we tried highlighted!

Onikai Caesar Salad with Seasonal Fruits & Prosciutto

Price: 1,100 JPY (~$7.00)

A refreshing combination of farm-fresh greens, seasonal fruit, and salty prosciutto. While it was a great starter, the prosciutto was a bit too salty for my personal taste, though it paired beautifully with drinks.

Lotus Root with Minced Meat Sauce / Octopus Salad

Price: 650 JPY (~$4.15)

After the salty salad, we tried the lightly blanched octopus salad. This was much more balanced, light, and served in a perfect portion size.

Seasonal Green Vegetables Wrapped in Beef

Price: 1,850 JPY (~$11.85)

The highly anticipated main event! Because it is so popular, it took some time to arrive. Since the previous salads were quite savory, this beef-wrapped dish provided a wonderful, rich contrast.

You dip the beef roll into a soy-based sauce mixed with a raw egg yolk. It acts as a perfect main dish that grounds the entire meal.

We also ordered the Japanese Chicken Karaage (which was flawlessly crispy and perfect with alcohol) and a side of Kyoto-style pickles, though we devoured them before taking photos!

Gangi Sake: 900 JPY (~$5.75)

I usually avoid overly dry sake, but this one was listed as "sweet" on the menu, so I gave it a shot. It balanced the savory, salty dishes perfectly, though my husband found it a bit too sweet for his taste.

Takikomi Gohan (Spanish Mackerel Claypot Rice)

Price: 1,800 JPY (~$11.50)

Finally, our claypot rice arrived! The staff carefully monitors your eating speed to serve this fresh and piping hot.

Nothing beats a comforting bowl of rice to finish a meal. This Spanish Mackerel (Sawara) claypot rice was hands-down my favorite dish of the night! It was incredibly fragrant, rich, and had absolutely zero fishy taste. 🩷

You can enjoy it as is first, and then the staff will offer to pour a hot, savory dashi broth over the remaining rice to make it into Ochazuke. If they don't ask, feel free to request it—they are happy to accommodate!

If you visit Onikai, this claypot rice is an absolute must-order. 😊