Kotohira-gu Takamatsu: Conquer 785 Steps to Spiritual Heights

Hello, fellow adventurers!

It's your travel storyteller, Susukkotdari, here to share another unforgettable journey.

On the final day of my Takamatsu adventure, I checked into Kotohirakadan, a fantastic accommodation choice, and immediately set out to explore Kotohira-gu Shrine.

This revered shrine, dedicated to the god of the sea, is affectionately known as 'Sanuki's Konpira-san.' For many Japanese, it's considered a sacred site they dream of visiting at least once in their lifetime. But be warned: reaching the main shrine requires ascending a formidable 785 steps!

Along the way, you'll spot bamboo sticks available at various points. At first, I wondered what they were for, but it quickly became clear they serve as hiking poles – a real lifesaver for the climb!

A Lively Shopping Street and a Path of Spiritual Endeavor

From Kotohirakadan, a leisurely stroll along the path quickly brings you to the entrance of Kotohira-gu Shrine. The initial stretch is anything but dull, lined with charming souvenir shops and tempting food stalls. You'll find renowned Sanuki Udon restaurants, a specialty of Takamatsu, alongside sweet ice cream treats and unique local products that are sure to catch your eye.

There’s so much to see! The stalls are packed with delightful Japanese souvenirs. You might even spot extravagant gold leaf ice cream for about ~$13. That was a bit out of my budget, so I opted for an ice cream topped with savory seasoned green onions. Surprisingly, the salty onions and sweet ice cream created a delicious combination!

Along the street, you’ll find foot baths, natural hot springs, sake breweries with tasting rooms, and even Udon academies where you can try your hand at making fresh udon noodles. This long stretch of road is so engaging, you won't even notice the climb!

The first 100-200 steps fly by as you enjoy the sights, but the atmosphere subtly shifts as you pass through the Daimon (Great Gate) at step 365. From here, the air feels more serene, signaling a sacred domain, and lush trees provide a welcome canopy of shade. Beyond the Daimon, you'll encounter the 'Goninbyakusho,' five candy stalls selling 'Kami-yo-ame' candy. Breaking off pieces of this unique treat to enjoy as you catch your breath is a charming tradition unique to Kotohira-gu Shrine.

The Honsha: Reaching the Main Shrine After 785 Steps

Around the 500-step mark, the climb definitely starts to feel more challenging. But each time you turn to look back, the panoramic views of the Sanuki Plain expanding below offer a rewarding sense of how far you’ve come.

Finally, after navigating the last steep section and stepping onto the 785th stair, reaching the Honsha (main shrine) was an incredibly satisfying moment!

As a shrine dedicated to the guardian of the sea, it’s fascinating to see the various votive offerings, such as ship rudders, symbolizing prayers for maritime safety. I was told there's a unique golden amulet, the 'Shiawase no Kiiroi Omamori' (Golden Amulet of Happiness), available only here, but I sadly didn't manage to find it during my visit.

Entering the very heart of Kotohira-gu Shrine can take a considerable amount of time, so after a quick peek into the main area, I started my descent. I needed to be back at Kotohirakadan for my dinner reservation and wanted to make sure I had time to enjoy their grand public bath.

The descent felt much easier. On the way down, I noticed many details along the path that I had missed during the challenging climb up.

Final Thoughts & Tips for Your Visit

Essential Tip: Wear comfortable walking shoes – this is non-negotiable! Some shops at the entrance offer walking sticks for rent (either for a small fee or sometimes free), which can be incredibly helpful for the ascent.

The round trip to the main shrine (Honsha) typically takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. If you plan to continue to the Okusha (inner shrine), which involves climbing a total of 1,368 steps, you’ll need to allocate significantly more time.

Vending machines are scarce and often pricier at the top, so it’s wise to bring a bottle of water with you.

I noticed a diverse crowd visiting Kotohira-gu, including some Korean tour groups, but the majority were Japanese. This really highlighted the profound significance this place holds for them.

Kotohira-gu in Takamatsu is more than just a tourist attraction; it feels like a place where centuries of people's faith have accumulated. Those 785 steps aren’t just a physical challenge to reach the summit, but a journey where with each stride, you can shed the worries of daily life.

For us, as international tourists, it might simply be a fascinating Japanese shrine to explore, but the spiritual weight is palpable.