Funaya Ryokan Review: A 390-Year Dogo Onsen Legacy
Step into 390 years of history at Funaya Ryokan in Matsuyama. From pure Dogo Onsen waters to exquisite Kaiseki dining, here is what to expect from this stay.
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Step into 390 years of history at Funaya Ryokan in Matsuyama. From pure Dogo Onsen waters to exquisite Kaiseki dining, here is what to expect from this stay.
The absolute highlight of our Matsuyama itinerary was undoubtedly
our highly anticipated ryokan stay.
We chose "Funaya", a traditional ryokan boasting an incredible 390-year history.
Famous for using pure, undiluted hot spring water directly from the Dogo Onsen source,
and highly praised for its exceptional Kaiseki cuisine and hospitality,
it felt like the perfect choice—and spoiler alert: we were completely blown away!
From the room details and hot springs to the Kaiseki dinner and pricing,
here is my comprehensive review of our stay at Funaya Ryokan in Dogo Onsen.
Matsuyama Accommodation: Funaya Ryokan at Dogo Onsen |
1. Why We Chose Funaya Ryokan |
2. Japanese-Western Room Review |
3. The Grand Bath & Hot Springs |
4. Traditional Kaiseki Dinner |
5. Nightly Rates & Booking |
We traveled to Matsuyama during Japan's Spring Equinox holiday,
which meant securing a ryokan in Dogo Onsen was fiercely competitive.
While our options were somewhat limited at the time of booking,
if I were to return to Matsuyama tomorrow,
I would choose "Funaya" all over again. Here is why:
✅ Unmatched Onsen Quality
Funaya taps directly into the original Dogo Onsen source,
meaning the water quality is absolutely pristine.
Even if you don't book a room with a private open-air bath,
the standard en-suite bathrooms also use this pure hot spring water!
✅ Exquisite Kaiseki Cuisine
Matsuyama is famous for Taimeshi (sea bream rice).
Funaya's multi-course Kaiseki dinner
includes a beautifully presented, albeit smaller, portion of this local specialty.
It was a fantastic way to sample authentic regional flavors in a refined setting.
✅ Prime Accessibility
Many ryokans in the area are clustered
near the Dogo Onsen Main Building,
which often requires an uphill trek with luggage.
Funaya, however, is a breezy 5-minute walk from Dogo Onsen Station,
making rolling suitcases a non-issue.
Plus, the walk there is steeped in charming, old-world Japanese atmosphere.
I usually prefer fully traditional tatami rooms when staying at a ryokan,
but due to the holiday rush, only the Japanese-Western style rooms
(which include Western beds) were available.
Looking back,
I realized you don't necessarily need to strictly stick to a tatami-only room to get the full experience.
While the room features plush Western beds,
it also has a dedicated tatami seating area
where you can sit on the floor and enjoy tea and snacks.
It perfectly balances the traditional ryokan aesthetic
with the comfort of a mattress—something older travelers or parents will definitely appreciate.
As expected of a luxury ryokan, the room was incredibly spacious,
and even featured a small balcony overlooking the Dogo Onsen townscape.
The view during golden hour was absolutely stunning.
Funaya also boasts a sprawling 1.2-acre traditional Japanese garden.
It features a relaxing foot bath and is the perfect place for a tranquil stroll before or after dinner.
The bathroom layout separates the toilet and bathing area, which is standard for Japan.
Interestingly, while many hotels with public grand baths omit in-room tubs,
Funaya rooms come equipped with deep soaking tubs.
The best part? The in-room tub dispenses real Dogo Onsen water!
My parents actually preferred soaking in the privacy of their room over visiting the public bath.
Yukata robes are provided, complete with a helpful guide on how to wear them properly.
For welcome snacks,
they provided green tea and a famous local Matsuyama tart.
This is where Funaya's meticulous hospitality really shined.
Usually, you have to boil your own water to make tea in your room,
but here, a thermos of hot water was already prepared and waiting for us.
So, the moment we checked in and dropped our bags,
we could instantly sit down to enjoy a hot cup of matcha with our tarts.
Another huge plus was their luggage service.
Check-in is at 3:00 PM,
but we arrived around 10:00 AM to drop off our bags.
By the time we officially checked in later that afternoon, our luggage was already neatly placed in our room.
These small, thoughtful touches made the stay incredibly memorable.
Funaya's grand public baths are located on the 2nd and 3rd floors.
The floors are separated by gender,
and in classic ryokan tradition, the men's and women's baths swap daily.
If the 3rd floor is the women's bath today,
it will be the men's bath tomorrow morning.
The 3rd floor features a beautifully aromatic Hinoki (cypress wood) bath.
Because the atmosphere on the 2nd and 3rd floors is quite different,
I highly recommend soaking once in the evening and again the next morning to experience both.
While my parents stuck to the private in-room bath,
I took full advantage of the grand baths,
going once right after check-in and again just before checking out.
We initially booked a room-only rate,
but after hearing rave reviews about Funaya's culinary offerings,
we decided to add the Kaiseki dinner.
Keep in mind that Kaiseki must be reserved at least 3 days prior to your stay.
If you booked a room without a meal plan,
make sure to contact the ryokan well in advance to add it.
Ryokan menus can be notoriously difficult to translate using apps,
but thankfully, Funaya had English-speaking staff
who gracefully explained each course to us.
Since we visited during the spring,
the menu was heavily inspired by cherry blossom season.
Sakura (cherry blossom) tofu,
Fresh seasonal sashimi,
Chawanmushi (savory steamed egg custard),
Rich sukiyaki,
And finally, Matsuyama's signature Taimeshi.
Every dish was meticulously crafted and beautifully presented.
We also ordered a local Dogo craft beer
to pair with the meal, which was an excellent choice.
After such a satisfying and filling dinner,
taking a leisurely evening stroll through Funaya's illuminated garden
and the historic Dogo Onsen streets was pure magic.
Based on a two-person stay with half-board (dinner and breakfast included),
the rates generally range from ~$385 to ~$460 per night.
Here is a quick price comparison across popular booking platforms:
Booking Platform | Price |
~$394 | |
~$469 | |
~$476 | |
~$385 | |
~$422 |
Prices will fluctuate based on the room type and whether you have a private open-air bath,
but typically, a half-board stay
will cost around ~$385 to ~$460.
If you only include breakfast, expect to pay ~$300 to ~$385.
A room-only reservation will run about ~$230 to ~$300.
If you have an early flight or train out of Matsuyama
and won't have time for a sit-down breakfast,
I highly recommend doing what we did:
Book a room-only rate and add the Kaiseki dinner separately.
Even among the historic establishments of Dogo Onsen, Funaya stands out.
With nearly 390 years of heritage,
it is so prestigious that it has served as the official accommodation
for the Japanese Imperial Family during their visits to Matsuyama.
While it is definitely a premium experience with a matching price tag,
after staying there, I can confidently say it is worth every penny.
The pure Dogo Onsen water is incredible,
and both the indoor and outdoor baths are immaculately maintained.
Book Your Stay at Funaya Ryokan Matsuyama
Because Funaya is a boutique property with only 58 rooms,
the most popular room types sell out quickly.
If you are planning a trip, I recommend checking availability well in advance!
Funaya is located approximately a 5-minute walk from Dogo Onsen Station. Guests have reported that it was manageable even when pulling luggage.
Kaiseki dinner at Funaya Ryokan must be booked at least 3 days prior to your stay. If you have only booked a room without breakfast and dinner, it is recommended to make a reservation in advance.
Yes, Dogo Onsen hot spring water is available in the bathrooms of Funaya Ryokan's Japanese-Western style rooms. Some guests have preferred to enjoy the hot spring in their room's bathroom rather than the public bath.
For two people, a 1-night stay including both breakfast and Kaiseki dinner is approximately ~$330 to ~$396. Prices may vary depending on room type and the presence of an open-air bath.
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