Kikuyo Shokudo Hakodate 2026: Kaisen-don at Morning Market
Craving fresh seafood? Explore Hakodate Morning Market and dive into a delicious kaisen-don at Kikuyo Shokudo. Find out if this famed spot lives up to the hype!
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Craving fresh seafood? Explore Hakodate Morning Market and dive into a delicious kaisen-don at Kikuyo Shokudo. Find out if this famed spot lives up to the hype!
When you think of Hakodate, one of the first things that comes to mind for any food lover is the bustling Morning Market, famous for its incredible kaisen-don. This vibrant market isn't just a place to grab a bite; it's an experience where you can savor super fresh seafood and immerse yourself in the lively atmosphere, complete with friendly vendor calls.
My plan was to hit the market right at opening, but let's just say a cozy hotel bed and maybe a late night out won the battle. Waking up a bit later than intended, I couldn't help but wonder if my early bird days were behind me – or maybe I just needed that extra sleep! No matter, the market would still be there.

The market is packed with vendors, each showcasing their delicious offerings with incredibly realistic food models outside their shops. It's a fantastic way to browse and pick your favorite before stepping inside. Among the most renowned spots are Kikuyo Shokudo, famous for its original Sanshoku-don (three-color rice bowl), and Uni-don, a popular choice for sea urchin lovers.

Beyond kaisen-don, you'll find a delightful array of other local treats and fresh catches, with vendors enthusiastically calling out to passersby – a charming part of the market experience! While not massive, the market has plenty of nooks and crannies to explore. Its location right next to Hakodate Station is a huge plus, making it super convenient for travelers to grab a delicious meal before hopping on a JR train.
True to its name, the Hakodate Morning Market opens bright and early, usually winding down around lunchtime. Being so close to the sea, there's an undeniable freshness in the air, a testament to the quality of the seafood on offer.


I even tried some of the local melon. It was certainly tasty, though I must admit it didn't strike me as dramatically different from other good quality melons I've had.
Just a stone's throw away is another Hakodate favorite, Lucky Pierrot, known for its incredible local burgers. It's tempting to combine a visit to both, but let's be real – both are main meal contenders, so you might need to pace yourself or plan two separate culinary adventures!
My strategy for the day was simple: eat first, then continue exploring. And honestly, for me, this was a huge step forward. Me, eating kaisen-don? It's practically a miracle!
I've always been a staunch meat-lover, and seafood wasn't really my jam. Lately, I've been slowly warming up to sushi – I mean, white fish can be pretty good! But before, if I ever found myself at a sushi place, I'd usually just go for the beef sushi. Shout out to Gatten Sushi for that!
Anyway, I digress. Sushi felt civilized, a neatly portioned piece of art. But kaisen-don? My mind used to scream, "You're telling me they just plop all that raw, potentially fishy stuff right on top of rice?!" It was a mental hurdle, to say the least.


But today was the day to conquer my fears. So, in I went!

True to its reputation as a Hakodate culinary hotspot, the lobby was adorned with signatures from various celebrities – a clear sign that I was in for a treat.


The menu offered a tempting variety, but when in Rome, or rather, when at the "Original Sanshoku-don" spot, you go for their specialty! I opted for the smaller size, just to ease myself into this new culinary adventure.



I started with the scallop, a safe bet for my still-developing seafood palate. It was perfectly fine, a pleasant introduction. Next up: uni (sea urchin). This was the one I was genuinely apprehensive about. My previous encounters with uni hadn't been great; I'd always found it too fishy for my liking.
But this time? No fishiness whatsoever! Instead, I had an "Oh, wow, this is actually good!" moment. It was creamy, subtly sweet, and surprisingly delicious. Perhaps this is what truly fresh uni tastes like!
Finally, I tackled the beautifully vibrant salmon roe. I'd initially thought this would be an easy one, but as soon as I took a bite, a memory flashed back: that one kind of gunkan sushi at conveyor belt restaurants I always avoided. The feeling of those little roe pearls bursting with an unpleasant fishiness in my mouth was not a fond one.
Thankfully, these weren't fishy at all. It seems truly high-quality seafood doesn't have that off-putting taste. While I didn't find myself completely captivated by the salmon roe, it was a far cry from my past experiences and certainly didn't detract from the meal.
Overall, it was a surprisingly good experience. If you're a seafood enthusiast, you'd undoubtedly love it. I visited around 10:00 AM, a slightly off-peak time, and there was no wait at Kikuyo Shokudo. Interestingly, another popular kaisen-don spot that many people consider alongside Kikuyo Shokudo *did* have a line at the same time!

That spot was Uni-don. If you're set on trying Uni-don, arriving right at opening (an "open run" as they say in Japan) or preparing for a wait seems to be the way to go.
📍 Hakodate Morning Market Address: 9-19 Wakamatsuchō, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0063 Japan
9-19 Wakamatsuchō, Hakodate, Hokkaido 040-0063 Japan
The Hakodate Morning Market is easily found at the address above. You can enter through the main indoor section, but don't forget to explore the various outdoor stalls that wrap around the building, offering even more local delights.



With such a wide variety of delicious food, the Hakodate Morning Market is definitely worth a visit. While many stalls offer kaisen-don, I chose Kikuyo Shokudo because it's known as the original. And if a self-proclaimed meat-lover like me can enjoy their kaisen-don without a hint of fishiness, then it's certainly earned its reputation as a must-try Hakodate restaurant!
When I visited around 10 AM, Kikuyo Shokudo had no waiting line. However, Unitei had a waiting line at the same time.
Yes, according to the article, even those who don't usually enjoy seafood found Kikuyo Shokudo's Kaisen-don delicious and not fishy. They specifically noted that the uni (sea urchin) was not fishy and tasted great.
Hakodate Morning Market opens early in the morning and closes around lunchtime. It's located right next to Hakodate Station, offering excellent accessibility for JR users.

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